3M Headlight Lens Restoration System, 39008

(10 customer reviews)

Listed Price: $13.14

KIT INCLUDES: 1 – Disc Pad Holder, 3.25 inch (8,2 centimeter) 6 – 3M Gold Sanding Discs 500 Grit, 3 inch (7,6 centimeter) each 4 – 3M White Finishing Discs 800 Grit, 3 inch (7,6 centimeter) each 1 – 3M Trizact Refining Disc, 3 inch (7,6 centimeter) 1 – 3M Rubbing Compound, 1 US fluid ounce (29 meter)
LIKE NEW HEADLIGHTS: Easy heavy duty kit solution help your headlights look like new
REMOVE HARSHEST YELLOWING: Kit is powered by drill-activated sanding to provide maximum clarity
RESTORE CLEARNESS: Improve the appearance of your vehicle.
SEE BETTER AT NIGHT: Enhances visibility and safety for night driving
SAVE MONEY: Save hundreds vs. replacing headlight lenses
COMPLETE RESTORATION KIT: Kits contain masking tape, light sanding discs, wax protectant and more
Easy, 3-step process requires as little as an hour to remove scratches and restore cloudy, dull lenses
For use on plastic lenses headlights, taillights, fog lights, directional lights and more
3M abrasive technology removes yellowing and buildup without damaging plastic lens surface
Features 3M abrasive technology and a polishing compound to restore hazy and dull headlight lenses, as well as other plastic lens surfaces on your vehicle
System is intended to restore two headlight lenses
Utilizes the muscle power of a common household (1200-1600 rpm) drill to do all the necessary sanding and buffing
This item is not for sale in Catalina Island

Brand 3M

Description

3M Headlight Restoration Kit Includes the Products You Need to Restore 2 Headlight Lenses (You Supply the Household Drill and Masking Tape)

Headlight Lens Restoration System

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3M Disc Pad Holder

Disc Pad Holder attaches to your standard household drill (1200-1600 rpm) (not included) and uses the Hookit attachment system to secure abrasive discs

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3M Trizact Sanding Discs

Each kit includes 6 – P500 Grit 3″ Gold Sanding Discs, 4 – P800 Grit 3″ White Finishing Discs, and 1 – Trizact P3000 Grit 3″ Gray Refining Disc to remove yellowing and buildup.

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3M Compounding Pad

When used with 3M Rubbing Compound, the foam pad helps distribute the product evenly and buffs out the fine surface scratches caused by the sanding steps

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3M Rubbing Compound

Just a dime-sized amount of rubbing compound is needed to start buffing – removing the haze and improving clarity

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3M Headlight Restoration System

Details:

This 3M Headlight Lens Restoration Kit is a collection of professional-grade products assembled specifically for removing the cloudy, yellowed haze that builds up on automotive headlight lenses. Kits use a system of light abrasives to keep vehicles looking great and save money vs. replacing expensive lenses.

  • Kit contains disc holder for household drill, 3M Trizact sanding discs, compounding pad, and rubbing compound
  • For use on plastic lenses – headlights, taillights, fog lights, directional lights and more
  • 3M abrasive technology removes yellowing and buildup without damaging plastic lens surface
  • Simple 4-step process lets you restore lenses in under an hour
  • Save hundreds vs. replacing headlight lenses

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Restore Your Headlights Without Replacing Them

Rather than using ineffective solvents – or spending big on new headlight lenses – you can choose a 3M Headlight Lens Restoration Kit. A complete system of light abrasives and polishes removes scratches, dirt and oxidization that can appear on your lenses, lowering your vehicle’s value and reducing safe driving visibility. With just a spray water bottle and a common household drill, you can use the full kit with a complete range of abrasive discs for sanding, finishing and refining to remove discoloration that can cause your headlights, tail lights, fog and directional lights to appear cloudy and yellow – for a fraction of the cost and time of buying and installing new lenses. Each kit includes enough product to restore two headlight lenses.

How Does it Work?

The 3M Headlight Restoration Kit restores clear plastic lenses in a way that standard cleaners cannot. This convenient system requires just a few simple steps. First, apply high-performance masking tape (not included) to the painted surfaces around the lens you are restoring. Use a progressive system of Trizact abrasive discs to remove yellowing, scratches, dirt, haze, and other material buildup on the plastic lens. With a common household drill (not included), Hookit attachment system makes it easy – just slap the disc onto a pad, and you’re ready to go. Also includes 3M Rubbing Compound to achieve maximum shine and clarity. Remove the masking tape, and you’re finished.

About Trizact Abrasives The abrasive in 3M Trizact abrasive discs for headlight restoration is so fine that you can sand across the plastic lenses without worrying about creating scratches or other damaging marks. 3M Trizact abrasives feature microreplication – small 3-dimensional structures are reproduced and then uniformly distributed over the surface of the disc. These patterned, precise mineral structures contain multiple layers of abrasive mineral. As the structures wear, fresh, sharp mineral is exposed. The result is that the abrasive cuts faster, stays sharper longer and allows for precise finish control – it removes the yellowing, dirt buildup and small scratches that can cause haze, without damaging the lens itself.

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10 reviews for 3M Headlight Lens Restoration System, 39008

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    HuntandFishVA

    Took the 14 year old. Yellow, cracked headlight covers on my daughter’s car and made them look new again. It even removed the deep scratches following all steps.I used the rubbing compound and sponge attachment to get rid of the haze on my wife’s 6 year old car headlights. The full system wasn’t needed. They too look new agin.Most importantly, the headlights on both cars are now brighter and whiter, giving them better visibility while driving at night.

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    Validus

    I purchased this because I was just sick and tired of looking at my ugly headlights that were very yellow and it was effecting my visibility at night. Back in the days, headlights were made of glass and this was never a problem, but today because all headlights seem to be made of plastic, they tend to yellow and fade after a few years of being in the sun. I have tried the tooth paste, which does not work for yellowed headlights.What causes this yellowing? The problem is the coating on the actual headlight assembly is damaged due to oxidation to ultraviolet coating, this coating is a layer of hard-coat silicone and it starts to deteriorate after being exposed to the sun.Now, after using this 3M headlight lens restoration kit, my headlights once again look brand new. However, because this hard-coat silicone has been removed, the headlights I am certain will need to be redone about every 6 months or so. A brand new set of headlights for my Honda Accord costs only about $120, which is not bad, however many headlights can easily cost about $250 to $300.My Accord headlights are fairly large in size, this kit has enough material to do my headlights twice a year. So at $13.75 for the kit, it would be cheaper for me to keep buying a kit and redoing my headlights each year for the next 8 years. If I planned on keeping my car past 8 years, then I would be better off just buying new headlights. For the majority of people, unless you plan on buying a new car or new headlights in the next five years, you are cheaper off just restoring them long term.I’d highly recommend this kit. It is very easy to use. Just make sure to follow the directions and you should be able to complete one headlight in about 30 minutes or less. For drills, I just used both of my 18v lithium battery powered drills on full speed. I strongly suggest taking your time and to do it right the first time. For masking tape, I just used the blue painter tape, it works well and peels off easily. There is no reason to spend extra money on the recommended 3M tape. All you need is painting tape, it sticks on well and it peels off easily without damaging your car.Update:I just decided to do my wife’s Kia Sorento, the headlights appeared to have microcracks in the plastic, it did not look exactly like it was yellowing, but it is possible it was the thin layer of hard-coat silicone that was deteriorating away, which is terrible for headlights only 4 years old. Anyhow, I sanded these down with the rest of this kit and it looks beautiful again. This kit is a must for anyone who owns a detail business and is looking for a extra stream of income to make, restoring headlights to your services list. I hope you find my review helpful.

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    The Building Guy

    OK, I cheated!I have now restored 3 cars with this one kit and still have more supplies left to do more. OK, I have polished Plexiglas before, aircraft mostly and have a few hundred hours under my belt hand polishing plexi by hand so I had a slight advantage.Here is how I use these kits. First, the aggressive disk? I run my 220 grit DMT over it to knock down all the large grit and make it smooth. Then I use a spray bottle with warm but not hot water with 2 drops of liquid dish soap, Dawn works very well. I dip the disk into a bucket of fresh water and start removing the oxidization with the coarse pad at continuously spray water on the light as I work the pad around in coffee cup size circles. Once there is a good amount of white gunk dripping off the light, I wipe the light off and dip the pad into fresh water, then repeat the process until the whole lens is white but has no deep scratches.Repeat the process with the next two disks, keeping in mind that if you push the pad into the lens, it will gunk up and that pad is shot! Slow speeds, light pressure, lost of water, NO gunking up the pad.All of the pads with the exception of the first pad are all about removing the scratches the first pad made but if you don’t get all the way through the milky white oxidization layer with the first pad, you won’t have clear lenses when you are done.Once you get to the sponge and the polish, keep in mind that if the polish to thick or drys out, you will burn the lens. Use as little (BB size dab) of the polish (buffing compound) as you can and keep the sponge moving! DO NOT use pressure, let the sponge do the work. Yes, it will take time, be patient.Good luck, ask questions if you like.

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    cuzisayso

    Great value here…This is one of those products that goes beyond its intended purpose, if used properly. There are a few good how to videos & many before & after shots, so you get the idea, used as directed it works great, but you can do even better. I recommend you have your car washed first, or wash it yourself, if you’re into that…. So you followed the instructions & have awesome shiny headlights now, great! Now, look down, what do you see? You should have a drill with a buffer in hand & a decent amount of fine polishing compound left. If your’re car is old enough to have yellowed light lenses, it probably has traded paint with some other cars from some idiot at the mall or a careless valet. What are you waiting for? Bonus points for buffing out those scratches on the fenders, sill plates, door handles, the backs of those painted sideview mirrors & back deck where you load your band gear or soccer stuff. It works like magic. Just make sure you don’t pick up any dirt on the buffing pad ( remember that part about washing the whole car, hmmmm?) or you’ll put scratches into the paint. Double bonus points- save the last few drops of the compound to do those exhaust tips that make it look like you’ve been driving a diesel last. Stand back & admire. Get a couple Advil for that aching back.

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    Gordon W.

    Ok, I write reviews, but rarely do I get ‘wowed’ by a product, and this one is one of those ‘wows’.It sort of makes sense from the beginning to use a DRILL to help sand off the layers of oxidized yellowing plastic. If you buy the one where you ‘hand sand’ you can imagine how long the sanding process can be doing it by hand and how in effective that sounds.We’re not in the dark ages, we can use tools and this 3M headlight restore kit does the job magnificently. That said, while it may not take 2hrs, this will take about 45 minutes to do a good job and it’s important to follow the instructions especially by sand disc grits because of different levels sanding.The kit comes with drill disc mount, velcro sanding discs, a sponger buffer, and rubbing compound.It’s easy once you read the instructions, and going ‘back and forth’ on your headlights carefully and throughly will get you a better job. Depending on the condition of your headlights you may do 1hr, 2hrs because it requires more sanding. BUT doing a through job will give you a big reward.The compound polishes and brings clarity so don’t skip that part. I finished the entire process with some spray on wax to protect my hard work.Don’t let the disc, or the process intimidate you. Anyone with little automotive knowledge can do this, but MAKE SURE YOU MASK around your headlights lest you SAND Off paint off your car. Honestly it’s more like a craft project than an automotive repair. Easy, with great results if you follow instructions (there is an entire process).

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    Puffin

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     I really love the results of this product! It took me 4hrs total, but it was worth it to see the end results. This 13 year old stock headlights has never received any treatment and has major oxidation build up. The car is still in mint condition and has been touched up with paint a couple times, but this cloudy headlight was an eye sore! I read reviews before purchasing and was confident I can handle the work. I followed instructions carefully and went back and forth between the 800 grit and wet trizact 3000 sand before I moved onto the buffing with rubbing compound. As soon as I buffed out the lens, it was becoming more clearer! I was so amazed at the results, and proud of it! I also purchased and used the Meguire’s headlight clear coat to help protect the lens, which is supposed to last up to a year. I would definitely buy this again.If you have patience and time, you will get the best results from this. It took me 2 hrs per headlight. Everything you need is provided in this kit, all you need is a hand drill (corded or cordless with extra fully charged battery packs), masking tape, a spray bottle with water, and lots of paper towels. I added photos and a time lapses video of my progress. I also worked on the fog lights the following day, picture is shown.

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    P. Luevano

    I am the type of buyer who does a lot of research before pulling the trigger on a purchase and the case of buying a headlight restoration kit was no exception. Now that I have bought and used this kit, a few helpful hints:- On Amazon, there were three 3M kits listed, the 39008, the 39014, and 39045 for approx $17, $18, and $24 respectively, all with great reviews. I couldn’t for the life of me figure out the difference int he kits, so I went with the cheapest, the 

    3M 39008 Headlight Lens Restoration System

    . Well, now I know the difference. ALL the kits include: 1 – 3M drill backing plate 4 – P800 grit white abrasive discs 6 – P500 grit yellow discs 1 – P3000 Trizact foam disc 1 – Orange foam compounding pad 1 – 1 oz. 3M headlight lens polish sample – The 

    3M 39014 Lens Renewal Kit

     includes all the above plus: 1 – 3M Masking Tape PN 0000 25 ft. – The 

    3M 39045 Lens Renewal Kit with Protectant

     includes all of the above plus: 1 – Container of protectant formulaI had making tape, so no biggie there, and I just used a high quality automotive wax on the lenses when I was done, so I didn’t need the 3M “Protectant formula”. You also provide a 1200-1600rpm drill (use a corded drill, cordless just won’t cut it, you will run out of charge in short order) and a pray bottle with plain water.Maybe my lights were particularly bad, but it took me a good 1.5 – 2 hours PER lens to get the results I did. But I am a perfectionist, and took my time. I would say the lights came out at 99-100% I’m not sure what those who wrote negative reviews were doing wrong, but if you follow the directions and take your time, the results are great.Some tips: – On the first step with the P500 grit. Clean the lens and the disc OFTEN. A old towel works well for the lens and a paint brush worked well on the disc. By cleaning the disc often, I was able to do both light with just a single P500 disc. If you rush, you WILL clog up the disc and need a new one. This is the most time consuming step, took me about a hour a lens. – On the P800 disc, same as above, clean the disc and the lens often! – With the 3000 wet disc. Keep the pad and the lens wet, wipe the lens often! (Noticing a pattern?) – On the polish step, just a little compound goes a long way! Just a dime amount on the pad will do you just fine. – Finish up with a nice high quality wax on the lens to protect your work!If you take you time and follow the directions, you will be very happy with the results. For $20, and 4 hours of my time, I was very happy. Much better that the $180ea for new lenses!

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    C. Ferry

    Hey, gals, you can do this! The headlight lens on my passenger side was so yellow and cloudy that I actually had a driver get out of his car on a red light and come over to my car to tell me! (yes, thank you, I know). I decided to try this kit because of its high rating and lower price. It really works!! The instructions are easy to follow, with photos to show you how the end of each step is supposed to look. Ladies, don’t be afraid of this if you have no guy to help. I am a grandmother with (at the time) a bad shoulder, who had never done this before, and it turned out beautifully. So I consider it idiot-proof. All you need is a drill, and some auto masking tape, and even if you aren’t drill-savvy, it’s easy to do. I am so happy with the results, and highly recommend this kit!

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    Amazon Customer

    Cliff notes version:1) Tape the work area. 2 layers.2) Slow RPM on the coarse grit, increase speed as you progress.3) Badly damaged lamps will take more work. If the paper is not producing dust, change the paper.4) Take you time. Schedule about 45 minutes per lamp.5) Clean the work area often to prevent scratching.6) The kit is good for one set of badly damaged lamps.My headlights were really fogged up (200,000 miles). This kit was attractive to me due to the ability to use a drill’s power to do the work for me. I’ve used other systems in the past for acrylic tanks which were all manual, and trust me, they give you a workout after a while.The instructions were helpful as well as straightforward and offered some tips, such as applying a mask around the lamp. Don’t skip this step, and I recommend two layers (as do the instructions). I used blue painters tape.The first lamp went well and cleaned up nicely. The second one was apparently more damaged and proved to be somewhat problematic. What I learned was that on the coarse grit, use a low RPM on your drill. If you Rev up the drill, you get a buildup on your lamp which is melted oxidized (yellow) plastic. I think that this is also a sign that the sanding paper has expired. When I changed the paper and ran the drill at a lower RPM, the residue came right off. This step should take the longest. Don’t try to do this quickly or you will pay for it as you get to the finer grit paper. Lastly, if you don’t see a white or yellow powder coming from the sanding… Change the paper.The second pass, run the RPM up a little on the drill. Again, you should see a fine white (not yellow) powder coming from the lamp. If you see yellow, go back to the coarse grit.When you are done with that, wipe the lamp! The grit left from the previous steps is still around. The instructions say to continuously mist the lamp. I started by saturating the media and then used a saturated paper towel to keep putting water on the work area. Keep everything wet or you will cause damage to the lamp. Run the drill at a higher RPM to begin the buffing process. The lamp should look relatively clear now. If not, drop down a grit and try again.Clean the lamp before you start polishing with the grit paste! Get the grit off now, or you are going to really start scratching things up.The instructions are a little stingy for the application of the polishing paste. I used about three times as much and smeared it directly on the buffing pad. Use very high speed for this operation. Keep working it until it looks polished. Apply more paste as needed.The results are in the photos. I was very skeptical at first, but it does a good job at polishing the lamp. I’ve seen other reviews saying that this will do more than one set of lamps. If your lamps are really yellow and scratched, as mine were, then expect to burn through the entire kit on one set of lamps.

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    Richard Ricketts

    So i have a toyota rav4 and a lexus is300.the Rav4 was first. and was really bad with flaking clear coat. So i started first with the 500 grit paper on a drill and sanded until the powder i was removing was white vs the old yellow clear coat. After that I moved to the 800 grit which smoothed out the 500’s scratches. Next i moved onto the Trizact disc and used a 409 bottle filled mostly with water and a small amount of dish soap. This is where the magic happens. Once the clarity was returning. I cleaned it off and then moved onto the orange foam polishing pad and rubbing compound. amazing. (Tip: apply a dime sized amount of compound onto the foam and then dab the foam on the headlight surface until it is evenly spread out, this will reduce compound being slung off the surface) If when you are done you see scratches. back up a couple steps and then continue through the steps again.dont forget to seal the headlight. you removed the clear coat uv protection. use the uv specific Rustoleum clear for plastics. But before you do that. clean off the headlight with a wax and grease cleaner like you would for paint….or you can use alcohol on a clean rag. Good luck! take your time. use blue painters tape, and take your time and keep cleaning your sanding paper with a microfiber towel.

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